ABSOLUTE BEGINNER'S GUIDE

Introduction

 

 For more videos, see the walkthrough

It has always surprised me as to how popular the Final Fantasy games are.  Not because they are bad.  The story is engaging and the characters are so very deep I sometimes wonder if I am playing just a video game.  The thing that surprises me though is how hard and complicated the games are.  I would not expect a game with statistics, planning, and leveling to reach such a wide audience.  But it does. This guide is intended to smooth over those complications and spell out how the mechanics of this game really work.  It is split into sections to cover each aspect of the game.  Think of this guide as the content that should have been covered in the instruction book.  

 

 Table of Contents

 

Final Fantasy XII Game Mechanics.......(#100)
-  Loot........................................(#101)
-  Chaining....................................(#102)
-  Treasures..................................(#103)
-  Experience Points / License Points......(#104)

Shopping......................................(#200)
-  Bazaar Goods........................(#201)
-  Transportation Stones...............(#202)

Party Setup............................(#300)
-  Role Types..........................(#301)
-  Party Configuration.................(#302)
-  Types of Battles....................(#303)
-  Setting up a Tank...................(#304)
-  Setting up a Healer.................(#305)
-  Setting up a Caster.................(#306)
-  Setting up a Flex...................(#307)

Gambits................................(#400)
-  Obtaining...........................(#401)
-  Ordering............................(#402)
-  Tricky Gambit.......................(#403)
-  Tank Gambit Setup...................(#404)
-  Caster/Healer Gambit Setup..........(#405)
Quickenings.................................(#500)
-  How to Cast.........................(#501)
-  Compounding Castings................(#502)
-  Tips for a Successful Quickening....(#503)

Tips for Beginners.....................(#600)

 

 Game Mechanics  (#100)

 

-- Loot (#101) –-

Loot is the answer to question “If you kill a rat why would it drop Gil?  Does he have pockets?  Was he planning on buying something?”  Instead of dropping Gil  most monsters drop a commodity such as fangs, pelts, teeth, feathers.  Those things are then sold back to stores for Gil.

After a monster hunt you will have a ton of Loot to sell back to stores.  All stores, no matter their location in the game, will buy loot back at the same price.  You can also sell all loot back without fear of needing something important later.  EXCEPT for Transporation stones.  Those are used to warp your party from one gold save crystal to another gold save crystal.  Holding on to your Transportation stones on to those.

-- Chaining (#102) –-

When out in the wild killing things you get a bonus for repeatedly killing the same species of animal/monster.  If you kill 3 rats, you get a chain of 3.  However, if you kill 3 rats and then 1 toad your chain ends at 3.  The running chain number is indicated just above the character status in the right hand corner of the screen.
You can chain creatures of different types as long as they are of the same base species.  For instance, there may be a rat, wizard rat, ware-rat, and a vampire rat.  If you were to kill all of them in that order you would still get a chain of 4 because each is still a rat.  The best way to tell if two animals are of the same species is just to look at them.  Creatures of the same speciece have the same basic body frame, just different skins attached to them.

When out in the wild chaining to earn loot, the best strategy is to hold the “Fleeing” button and run away from any monster that is not in your chain.  Try not to engage in any fights that are a mix of different species; fights can move quickly and you may accidentally kill a non-chained monster and break your chain.  

Also note that if you enter a town or touch a save crystal you will loose the chain.  So only do this when you are done or are in desperate need of health/supplies.

The entire purpose of chaining is to increace the chances that a chained monster will drop a rarer and more expensive piece of loot.  Also when you get the chain up to around the 30 level random, positive status affects such as Protect may splash across your party. There is no equivalent multiplier effect for Experience points or License Points, no matter how high your chain is.

-- Treasures (#103) –-

Most zones in the world will have a treasure chest or ten.  The chests are quasi-random.  Sometimes they will appear and sometimes they won’t.  Sometimes they will contain a very rare item.  Sometimes they will contain a ball of rust.  Don’t be surprised if some guide tells you a chest is somewhere and it turns out to be missing.

-- Experience Points / License Points (#104) -–

Experience Points (EP) will add on to your character’s running total and when they reach a certain number, that character will increase in level.  Thus giving them extra HP, MP, attack, defense and on and on.  License Points (LP) allow you to purchase upgrades from the License Board.

Both EP and LP can only be gained by defeating enemies.  Every living character that did something in a fight will gain EP after the rat is dead.  EP is applied to each character.  So if the screen says EP 100 each character will get 100.

If a character hits a rat but dies during that same fight.  Then is replaced by another character who kills the rat, the dead character will not get any EP.  However, if a character hits a rat, is rotated out of the active party, and then the rat is killed by another character, the first guy WILL get EP.  Because of this, it is important that during boss fights you try to get each character to hit the boss rat at least once so that they will partake in the huge amount of EP that bosses drop after they die. 

LP is gained a bit differently than EP.  Everyone who is alive at the end of a fight will get the LP dropped.  Even if the character did nothing in the fight, they will get the LP.  However, if you have a dead character in your party, they will not get the LP.  So, it pays to keep all of your party alive when you are leveling up.
 

 Shopping (#200) 

Shops in the world of Final Fantasy XII operate like a giant interconnected web of traders.  All traders will buy back loot at the same price.  Also, if you unlock a Bazaar good in one shop, a store in another city will have the same goods available.  

Shops will also upgrade their inventories as you progress in the game; usually after defeating a key boss.

-- Bazaar Goods (#201) --

Bazaar Goods are packages that combine several specialty items and sold at a reduced price.  After selling back a lot of loot you will sometimes see the message “New Bazaar Items Available.”  This is because shops use recipes to make a Bazaar Items and the loot you sold fulfilled the next recipe.  For instance, to get the bazaar item Iron Sword you need to sell back 3 earth stones, 3 iron scraps, 2 foul flesh.

There are GameFAQ guides that will list every recipe and bazaar item. But unless you are specifically trying for something I recommend just selling back all loot in your inventory and just accepting whatever Bazaar item you gain.  The shops will automatically track what you have sold back.

-- Transportation / Teleport Stones (#202) –-

Transportation (aka teleport) stones are not sold in shops but there are two easiest ways to get them:

- Take the airship from Dalmasca to Bhujerba buy from the venders aboard.

- Steal them from the bats in the Lhusu mines

- Get them from the Clan provisioner in Dalmasca

Buy the stones in batches of 10.  If you get down to 3 or 4 go back and get some more.  You never want to get stuck in a dungeon without transportation stones.

 Party Setup (#300) 

There will be a total of six characters that you will be able to upgrade and mold into your desired roles.  It is very important from the very beginning that you start planning these roles because it will cost a lot of LP (and ultimately time) to change a character form one role into another.

-- Role Types (#301) –-

Here are the basic roles and their definitions:

Tank – The heavily armored, usually heavily armed, character that will be the front line of every fight you are in.  This character will take most of the hits and will usually deal most of the blows against a foe.

Caster – This character does not fight with his/her hands but strikes with magic.  During battles they will be in the back of the group lobbing spells at the target.

Healer – This person will use Mist Points to cast spells that heal the party and remove status effects (like blind or slow) that were cast on your clan.

Flex – The role of this person can be a blend of two.  Maybe the character is a tank who also heals the party when they are down.  The flex is handy during troubling fights when all of one type of character is down and you need to fill in.

-- Party Configuration (#302) –-

There can be endless configurations of the party.  However, if you are a beginner and just want to get through this game with as few complications as possible, I recommend the following.

Look at your clan as a sports club that has a first team and a second team.  When a person from the first team gets injured, sub her out with her counterpart from the second team.  To keep this simple here is a good team composition:

2 Tanks, 2 Flex, 2 Healers.

The 2 Flex characters are a little different from each other.  One character is part Tank and part Caster.  The other Flex is part Caster part Healer.

-- Types of Battles (#303) –-

Because there are only 3 active slots for fighting your team composition will be determined by the monsters you fight.  It will not always be a simple 1 Tank, 1 Flex, 1 Healer.  Here are a few combinations that work.

For creatures with weaknesses to elements: 1 Tank, 2 Caster/Healers.  The tank will take the brunt of the attack while the Caster and Healer will shoot the element that the monster is weak to.

If facing several opponents simultaneously: 2 Tanks, 1 healer.  The tanks will do most of the bashing while the healer will cure the two brawlers throughout the fight.

-- Setting up a Tank (#304) –-

ARMOR: Heavy.
SHIELD: A must.
WEAPON: Any one handed sword or axe – you must have the other hand free for the shield.

LP TO BUY:  Spend most of your points in the lower left corner of the upper board.  Spend it on HP gains, Battle Lore, Shield Blocking, Swiftness.

LP NOT TO BUY:  Don’t get too many MP upgrades such as Magic lore or Channeling.  Don’t buy too many Gambits either because Tanks don’t have too many decisions to make. It is all kill kill kill, block, block, block for them.

MAGIC/TECHNIQUES TO BUY:  In the early part of the game they don’t need much, possibly libra.  But in the second half of the game, buy the positive status effects such as Haste, Decoy, Berserk.

GAMBITS:  Refer to the gambit section of this guide to determine how to set up the gambits for the tank.

-- Setting up a Healer (#305) --

ARMOR: Mystic Armor.
SHIELD: Not necessary, and not needed if they have a two handed weapon.
WEAPON: Something that will keep them away from the battle front such as guns or bows.
 
LP TO BUY:  In the beginning, head for cure and then spend most of your points in the middle to upper half of the upper board.  Spend points on Channeling, Magic Lore.  Also buy gambits because there are a lot of different conditions that each require different spells

LP NOT TO BUY:  Don’t get too many HP, shields, or battle lore upgrades in the beginning.   

MAGIC/TECHNIQUES TO BUY:  Head straight for raise and cure spells, and charge.  In the later game work over to cura and eventually the black magicks.

GAMBITS:  Refer to the gambit section of this guide to determine how to set up the gambits for the healer.

-- Setting up a Caster (#306) –-

ARMOR: Mystic Armor.
SHIELD: Not necessary, and not needed if they have a two handed weapon.
WEAPONS: Something that will keep them away from the battle front such as guns or bows.  Sometimes staffs and ninja swords so they can dodge out of the way.

LP TO BUY:  Much like the healers, spend most of your points in the middle to upper half of the upper board.  Spend points on Channeling, Magic Lore.  Also buy gambits because there are a lot of different situations that need different spells.

LP NOT TO BUY:  Don’t get too many HP upgrades in the beginning.

Magic/Techniques to buy:  Absolutely must get Charge technique.  When your MP is low you perform Charge to get some back. Get the basic, black, elemental magicks such as Fire, Thunder, Blizzard, Water, Aero.   Also go for cure spells because in the early game the party is pretty weak and you will need a few more healers.  In the later game work over to the Green and Arcane Magics.

GAMBITS:  Refer to the gambit section of this guide to determine how to set up the gambits for the caster.

-- Setting up a Flex (#307) –-

I like to keep the Flex light and mobile so they can move around to their different roles.  If your flex will be like a Tank you may want to bulk them up a bit.

ARMOR: Light Armor.
SHIELD: If the flex will tend to the Tank side get shields.  I like to keep the flex nimble so I use two handed swords that are faster.
WEAPON:  This will depend on the Flex role, but if you want him or her fast stick to the swords and staves.

LP TO BUY:  Flex usually need a lot of gambits because they will be covering two roles.  Also buy MP or HP as needed.

LP NOT TO BUY:  In the early part of the game don’t go too deep in either direction for the flex as they will need to cover both sides of what they do.

MAGIC/TECHNIQUES TO BUY:  Charge is always important if the Flex will use magic.  I also like to get steal for them because they usually are not as important in the fight as a caster or tank is so they can use that time to steal some stuff from your opponent.

GAMBITS:  Refer to the gambit section of this guide to determine how to setup the gambits for the Flex.
 

 

 
Gambits (#400)  

 

 

-- Obtaining (#401) –-

Gambits are awarded in treasure chests or are purchased in stores.  All Gambit shops will sell the same gambits so there is no need to shop around.  One important thing to note is that new gambits are unlocked as you progress through the game.

Because gambits are quite cheap and you never know how you will need to set up your party, I recommend buying every gambit offered at a shop.

-- Ordering (#402) –-

Your gambits should be ordered as follows no matter what role your character plays in the clan:

1) Healing such as Raise, Cure, Cura, Curaja
2) Status enhancers/de-enhancers such as blinda, haste, slow
3) Libra, usually do a self cast right before on one of your characters
3) Steal, see the tricky gambit setup below, not every character will need it
4) Attacks, the last thing

Place your critical healing spells at the top of the list, followed by your status enhancers/de-enhancers (if applicable), steal (if applicable), and finally your attacks.

-- Tricky Gambits (#403) –-

Foe HP = 100% > steal.

To get one of your characters to steal from an enemy and then go back to fighting/healing after a few tries, use the steal gambit.  Let the character steal from each enemy, then hit each enemy once so that your character will stop stealing and get back to their assigned job.

Foe > Oil
Foe Status = Oil > Fire (This one two punch will really hurt the enemy)

-- Tank Gambit Setup (#404) –-

In the early levels of the game your tank should have only one or two gambits running.
Self > Libra (if applicable) and Foe > Attack

After about mid game your Tank should handle his or her own status enhancers:
Self > Haste
Self > Decoy
Self > Beserk (as long as he/she is not the leader)
Foe > Attack

And in the later half of the game add additional spells such as
Self > Bravery
Self > Bubble
-- Caster/Healer Gambit Setup (#405) –-

Because of the varying types of spells, a caster will always require a lot of gambits.  Here is the basic setup for healing:

Any > Raise
Ally <= 40 > Cure/Cura/or Curaja

Once you obtain the Self MP < 10, add a Charge gambit after the heals.  Note: The “self MP” gambits will not come about until the latter part of the game.

In the last half of the game, weakness specific gambits such as Foe: Weakness Fire, are available.  Until they are, you will need to manually switch your caster’s gambits to match the weakness of the foe.  Note: You can learn the weakness of a foe by having a character casting Libra on herself and then selecting the enemy you want to study.  $$

Foe > Aero

At the very bottom of a caster’s gambit list is the basic dumb attack.  This is used if MP is low and they can’t cast spells anymore.

Foe > Attack

Completed Gambit list for caster:

Any > Raise
Ally <= 40 > Cure/Cura/or Curaja
MP < 30 Charge
Foe > Slow
Foe > Aero (or whatever appropriate black magic attack)
Foe > Attack

  Quickenings (#500)

 

Quickenings are special attacks that can only be performed if your character has full MP and has purchased a quickening form the LP table.  After a quickening is purchased a small gold medallion will appear next to the character’s name.    

-- How to Cast (#501) –-

Once you have purchased a quickening on the LP board you can cast it by pressing X then selecting Mist > Quickenings.

As soon as you choose to cast a quickening, ignore all animations and immediately look at the character names located at the bottom right corner of the screen.

If a Triangle, X, or square button appear next to one of the names, push that button.  If multiple buttons appear, push any of them.  The character whose button you pushed will attack.  At the end of the animation look back to the names list and look for more buttons.

If none of the names have a button next to them, push the R2 button.  Doing so will shuffle the names around and possibly make a button appear.  If a button still does not appear, push R2 again.
 

Repeat the process of hitting R2 and the Triangle, X, Square button until you run out of quickening time.  There is a large amount of chance built into quickenings.  Sometimes buttons will not appear next to the character’s names and the quickening will not deliver as much damage.

-- Compounding Castings (#502) –-

If multiple characters in your active party have quickenings, starting one will include everyone else in the attack.  This includes characters that don’t have any MP left.  Be aware that if they don’t have any MP left, that character’s button won’t show up as readily as someone who does have full MP.

Having multiple characters together for a quickening will increase your chances for getting multiple hits in, thus increasing the overall damage done to a foe.

 

-- Tips for a Successful Quickening (#503) –-

When you start a quickening, change how you hold the controller.  I grab the controller like I am trying to choke it.  Put your right pointer finger at the R2 (shuffle button) and put your thumb at the triangle button.  Move your left hand so its thumb is at the X button.  Having two thumbs to work the buttons will increase how fast you can hit them and activate another character’s quickening.

Practice the whole quickening ordeal before you face a big boss.  Next time you need to level up, use quickening on the monsters you are fighting.  Even if it is just a simple level 1 rat it is good to get familiar with the basic Quickening rhythm.

Save crystals restore quickening power.  So, if there are a lot of enemies standing between you and a save crystal, use quickenings to get through them.  That crystal will then bring your right back to full quickening potential.

 

  Tips for Beginners (#600)   
 

 

- Change party leader by pressing down on the left control pad.
- During a battle, if a character’s name is red, they can not be swapped out because they are in the middle of performing an action or being attacked.
- Always have 10 of these: Teleport stones, alarm clocks, eye drops, echo herbs, golden needles, antidote.  You never know when a rat will cast a debilitating status affect locking down your team.  I always have enough available to get me out of any situation.
- If a dungeon is too hard and you want to give up, just go back to an easier zone and level up.  Buy some new License suqares.  Going up just two levels will make a big difference.  Most dungeons are a breeze if you are just at the right level.

- Plan Plan Plan.  In the early stages of the game you do not get much LP and you do not get many spells so it is critical that in that you have specific goals.  Use the LP chart from the Lloyd1337 – listed on GameFaqs and plan which spells and techniques each character will get.  In the beginning do not spend too much on the weapon licenses; you will get more out of the upper chart that affects your character’s techniques and strengths.

- It is very powerful if you have one person who is very dedicated to their role.  If you have a caster who is shooting off some mean spells early on it will make the early fights much easier.

- Fleeing - it is not bad to do.  Sometimes you want to get to a boss with full health so flee through an entire dungeon just to get to him.

- In any environment there will be some very up-level monsters mixed in with the low level monsters.  Learn which ones they are and avoid them.

- Elementals are nasty.  Anything that is floating around that looks like a ball of colorful light is usually an elemental.  They can hit your clan with status affects and then KO you in one strike.  In the early to mid game just run the other way anytime you see one.  Most of the time an Elemental will just lazily float around the landscape.  When like this, their health bar will be green.  If you start a fight with another creature that is near a neutral elemental, you may provoke it.  Its health bar will turn red and then actively pursue you.  If this happens, don’t even finish your fights with the other beasts, just run.